
Looong Steadicam Merlin + Canon T2i shot
1 year ago
This is not the most exciting shot in the world to watch, but it was for me the most successful of my increasingly steady pairing of a Steadicam Merlin with Canon Digital REBEL T2i and Rode Videomic.
In order to stop down the kit lens's aperture enough to achieve anything approaching deep focus in the relatively dark location, I had to shoot at the camera's 6400 ISO setting. My next big purchase will probably be a fast superwide zoom, maybe the Tokina 11-16mm f2.8. My Canon 20mm f2.8 is just not wide enough –it's the equivalent of a 36mm field of view on these APS-C sized sensors.
The steadicam was balanced so that it was just barely bottom heavy. About a 4-5 second drop (when the contraption is swiveled so that the camera and the counterweight are both level in front of me, it takes the camera about 5 seconds to float back upright). I enjoyed working with it so balanced.
The terrain was a little tricky. I had to weave around furniture, adults, and running little kids. It's not the smoothest path I could have carved through the space, but I'm pleased with the improvisation. Around 45 seconds the camera tilted a bit, probably after I ran into something. I tried to tip it back.
The Rode Videomic is just directional enough to isolate bits of conversation in front of the camera. I can clearly hear my cousin Bruce explaining the intricacies of the game "Risk" and my Uncle Bob talking about a play he'd seen called "The Whipping Man" as the camera passes each of them.
I applied a very temporary color correction with Final Cut Pro's 3-way color corrector filter, and applied very sophisticated titles and transitions, and exported to 1080p H264 using Compressor before uploading. Yay.
If it looks stuttery, try toggling "HD" to "off".
In order to stop down the kit lens's aperture enough to achieve anything approaching deep focus in the relatively dark location, I had to shoot at the camera's 6400 ISO setting. My next big purchase will probably be a fast superwide zoom, maybe the Tokina 11-16mm f2.8. My Canon 20mm f2.8 is just not wide enough –it's the equivalent of a 36mm field of view on these APS-C sized sensors.
The steadicam was balanced so that it was just barely bottom heavy. About a 4-5 second drop (when the contraption is swiveled so that the camera and the counterweight are both level in front of me, it takes the camera about 5 seconds to float back upright). I enjoyed working with it so balanced.
The terrain was a little tricky. I had to weave around furniture, adults, and running little kids. It's not the smoothest path I could have carved through the space, but I'm pleased with the improvisation. Around 45 seconds the camera tilted a bit, probably after I ran into something. I tried to tip it back.
The Rode Videomic is just directional enough to isolate bits of conversation in front of the camera. I can clearly hear my cousin Bruce explaining the intricacies of the game "Risk" and my Uncle Bob talking about a play he'd seen called "The Whipping Man" as the camera passes each of them.
I applied a very temporary color correction with Final Cut Pro's 3-way color corrector filter, and applied very sophisticated titles and transitions, and exported to 1080p H264 using Compressor before uploading. Yay.
If it looks stuttery, try toggling "HD" to "off".
MOV
00:01:12
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At what aperture were you shooting?
Sarabjeet: If it's playing with HD set to "on", the flicker or stuttering may be due to your laptop having trouble keeping up with all that data. Maybe see how it looks with HD toggled to "off".
There will always be some flicker on the TV in the picture as I didn't match my shutter speed to its refresh rate –but I'm guessing that's not what you're talking about.
I tried attaching my Canon 20mm f2.8 USM that evening to give it a run-through of the same shot, and it turned out I'd have needed to add at least one more weight to the bottom of the Merlin to keep the rig from flopping over. The setup was that close to not being bottom heavy at all, and the kit lens is that light compared to every other lens I've got. Unfortunately I'd left the extra weights back in my suitcase, miles away.
To those asking for a recipe, I'll post it soon. Sorry for the delay.
There's more info in the blog post, including pictures, but here's the text portion:
Stage Mounting Hole: N
The stage mark is lined up right about at -1.25.
End Weights: 1 start, 2 full
Middle Weights: 1 full, 1 finish
Arc size: if “-” is -1 and “+” is 1, I’m set right around -0.15 –not sure if that’s the same setting as in the photo.
Gezornenplatz screw is in place, and the arc joint is locked. The setup works best when it is as stiff as possible.
Edit (2010/08/03): After a day using this reconstructed recipe and reviewing the resulting footage, it’s obviously more bottom heavy than the recipe with which I recorded that clip I’d posted to vimeo. Though this recipe balances the camera, there is sway when changing direction as a result of the bottom’s greater inertia. I think I’m going to try reducing the spar angle and lowering the gimbal so as to better equalize top and bottom. I want to get back to a 3-5 second drop time.
On an unrelated note, you very happy with the Rodemic?!
Thanks for the posts! Also - saw an Indiana shirt! Yes!
I don't think autofocus with video really works well enough to bother with so I focus by hand. With a balanced steadicam the slightest touch to the focus ring will send the whole kit off course, so I just set and leave the focus ring, then try to either maintain strict distance to the subject or make sure there's deep enough depth of field to keep everything reasonably sharp.