
Canon 5D Mark II Shutter Exposed
1 year ago
Jon and Nathan Fairhurst of P3Pictures expose the shutter operation of the Canon 5D Mark II in Video Mode.
NOTE!!! This is based on the original firmware, before we had manual shutter control. With 1.1.0 firmware, we can set the shutter to almost anything we want. The shutter speed that we show in this video still apply, however, if you do not choose manual mode.
NOTE!!! This is based on the original firmware, before we had manual shutter control. With 1.1.0 firmware, we can set the shutter to almost anything we want. The shutter speed that we show in this video still apply, however, if you do not choose manual mode.
This conversation is missing your voice. Take five seconds to join Vimeo or log in.
Hey, there is 1 more comment in
1 group
-
Vimeo: About / Blog / Developers / Jobs / Community Guidelines / Community Forums / Help Center / Site Map / Merchandise
/ Get Vimeo

Previous Week
1) Go into Live Mode
2) Turn the exposure offset to +2 using the wheel on the back of the camera.
3) Shine a light in the lens and press Exposure Lock, once you reach an ISO of 100 and a shutter speed of 1/40.
4) Control the shutter speed with the wheel on the back of the camera.
I'd like to see this test done with a faster rotation, so you can see exactly what the chosen shutter speed is.
When you select 1/40 or 1/50, you get something in between.
When you select 1/60, 1/80, or 1/100, you get 1/80. 1/100 is artificially darkened.
When you select 1/125, 1/250 or 1/500, that's what you get.
One exception is when shooting dark scenes. Once the camera gets to 1/30, the ISO jumps to 3200.
And, yes, you have to setup the shutter/ISO every single take. As soon as you stop shooting video, the camera gets amnesia.
You're right. Each time you stop recording, the camera loses its memory. However, with Nikon lenses, you can zoom and focus without upsetting the camera. With Canon EF lenses, you can try the "twist" method -> 1) Set the desired aperture, 2) Hold the DOF Preview Button and release the lens by about 3mm. Now your Canon lens will behave like a Nikon. Manual Nikons are easier, however, because you can change the aperture with the ring at any time - and you don't risk dropping the lens.
Canon NEEDS to make the camera operate properly in video mode. Otherwise, I'm spending my money on Nikkor glass.
- I would like to know if there is an Easy way to correct the codec problem using Premier, as it is in Vegas (as you described in the linked forum at your other video)
- Please let me know if there is any clear explanation about the codec issue too
- (out of topic question): did you find many dead or hot pixels in your 5D Mark II ? I did read so many posts about hot pixels
- I was using Nikon, so I have some Nikon lenses (non G-type, so they have Aperture ring!) and could use them, with an adapter, for filming, although it's a waste of Canon optics due to the limitation of the camera in video mode...
Thanks a lot for your time and help!! and sorry for so many questions !
Best regards.
At CES I pleaded with the Canon reps to add manual control for video. If they would simply keep the settings from Live View Exposure Simulation when recording video, they wouldn't need to change the manual or the on-screen-display. And then I'd buy Canon lenses. I also wouldn't be irritated each and every time I play the flashlight trick.
Regarding Premiere, I'm not sure of the best work flow. You can try searching the threads at dvinfo.
I was fortunate in that we haven't found any dead or hot pixels. The camera has been 100% solid. I'm still using the original firmware. The black dot issue is a bit of a corner case. The only thing I'm looking for in the firmware are improvements for video. I didn't buy this camera for stills.
Any comment or suggestions, are more than welcome!
Best regards!
PS.: could you tell me at what store you bought the camera?
I understand your concern. I'm glad that my camera is solid (so far.)
I bought mine at Frys Electronics in Portland, OR. I had my name on a list at a local shop, and missed a couple at Best Buy by only a few hours. One Saturday morning, I called Frys, they had two in stock, I had them put it on "will call", and picked it up as soon as I could get there.
Best of luck with your decision!
I guess it depends on how strong your light is, and what you are trying to do.
To get 1/40 I generally give the camera enough light to go above 1/40, and then take the light away. When the shutter display hits 1/40, I hit AE Lock immediately.
To get 100 ISO, I go from dark to light and press AE Lock as soon as 100 ISO is reached. If your aperture doesn't allow you to get to 100 ISO, you'll need to open it up.
I've been doing it a variety of ways I was curious what other were doing.
Thanks
i know i'm off somewhere in my logic here, but where?:
- i have movie display mode setting
- i understand that half-pressing shutter release only shows data for pics but also understand that it somewhat relates to video
- i use 5d in M manual mode
- with manual nikon lens, i'm able to accomplish these half-shutter pressed numbers to show and lock the shutter being 1/50 and the iso even up to 3200 by pointing at different areas of the room and rotating the aperture ring.
so in the above scenario, with such high iso, although i'm locked with the shutter display being 1/50, it is not so?
I've found that we can get any shutter speed with 100 ISO and any ISO up to 3200 with a shutter speed of 1/40. It's odd that you can get 1/50. I'm guessing that you have Highlight Tone Priority enabled, as that changes things a bit.
Then again, as the video shows, when the camera displays 1/50, you get the same shutter speed as when it displays 1/40. In general, I figure that it's roughly 1/45.
I sure hope we get a firmware update soon. The new GH1 offers full manual control at half the price of the 5D MkII.
i will probably skip the GH1 as i have nikon lenses and dont want that magnification factor. i think nikon will release something full frame someday and we will get something more in 5D
One guy at DV Info had the plan to use Highlight Tone Priority, giving him 1/60 (displayed) at 200 ISO or 100 ISO. That's no problem outdoors in daylight (use ND filters as needed), but you need lots of light indoors to get away with 200 ISO.
The thing about 1/45 (actual) is that it gives you about the same "open" time as film, but with a short "closed" time. That makes it too smooth. If you shoot 1/80 (actual) the "closed" time is the same as film, but the "open" time is shorter. This can make things a bit stuttery.
I think 1/80 (actual) is best for 30p display. For 24p display, it depends on the conversion that you use. I'd say test both.
Certainly, the most flexible approach is to go with 1/45 (actual), since you can get any ISO up to 3200, though I've found that it's best to limit ISO to about 1000.
yep looks like 1/45 is the easiest to get + i get higher iso with it, so i'll stick to that till Canon gives us more flexibility, or someone hacks it:)
more talking about sync issues and if you ran into any. Did you ? Is the
Mark II 30p or 29.97 ?
- Is the 5D Mark II actually recording at 29.97 (with a wrong header data telling 30.00) or at real 30 fps ?
Thanks a lot in advance for yuor always helpful & detailed comments.
(BTW, did you read about that idea some people had to use PDA or even cell phones to display and cover the lens front with different plain gray tone images to let set the movie values -controlling the light to set the values you want and then lock the exposure- until a firmware update allows full manual control. It's a very handy way)
Yes, it's recording at 30fps. Lately, I've been using Cineform's NeoScene ($99 at VideoGuys.com.) That software encodes that video so it can be easily edited on a modest computer. It slows the video by 1.001, so it conforms with 29.97. The latest version also slows the audio by the same (imperceptible) amount.
Yeah, I read about the iPhone method of setting exposure. Frankly, for most natural lighting situations, I just open the aperture of the Nikon lens, lock the exposure (which generally selects 1/40) and dial the ISO up or down as needed.
I was watching your test about shutter speed many times, since it is really useful, and I have a question:
Do the results apply to other ISO values?
In case not, is there any reference for higher ISO values like this one you made for ISO 100?
-------------------
BTW: I thought the 5D Mark II was recording actually at 29.97 with a wrong metadata/header info of 30.00... The Cineform guys told there is no resampling giving ghosting or blending, so then how do they resample the video? or it doesn't resample and do it different way?
If you can tell more about that, it would help a lot too
As always, thanks a lot in advance for your help!!
The 5D Mk II restricts the shutter speed to 1/40 at other ISOs. You can also get 1/30 at 3200 ISO.
If you enable Highlight Tone Priority, you can get many shutter speeds at 200 ISO. Unfortunately, my tests are only at 100 ISO without Highlight Tone Priority.
Regarding Cineform, they confirmed that the camera shoots 30.00p. To get 29.97p, they slow down the video by 1.001. No frames are dropped or processed, it's just a slower playback. They slow the audio to match.
This is good for NTSC users. However, if you try to mix with other cameras, there will be some drift.
All the best!
i stumbled on this page when i was looking for info on the zoom H4n . this is all so helpful thank you all so much . but i do have a few questions for ya all .
1- has anyone used the h4n with the mark II ?
2- do you rig it to the camera or tether it ?
3- does it have any syncing problems?
4-can i shoot at 400-800 ISO and still change the shutter ? i feel it gives you more of a film look
at 400-800 ISO
5-is anyone slating it in anyway if so how ?
6- has anyone tried ND filters in daylight and how does it look ?
thank you all for the help . i'm so stoked i found this vimeo site
thanks
robert
Is there a certain trick to it?
I was trying to shoot a sunset, but it kept dimming it down (sun is bright, I get it).
In which mode do I need to put the camera?
* Go to the 2nd yellow wrench icon, select Live View/Movie func. set.
* Select LC func. setting
* Select Stills+movie
* Select Movie display
And just to be sure, the AE Lock button is on the back of the camera; 2nd button from the top, right corner.
I hope that works!
I am still a bit confused by one thing.
I am using a manual exposure Nikon lens, and I seem to be able to set the shutter speed, but the ISO seems to jump to random values.
Is there a way I can lock the ISO down and just control the shutter speed.
Select a higher ISO speed so that the shutter speed jumps to 40 or 80. Instead of a lower ISO and a way too higher shutter speed.
To enable HTP, select the camera icon (custom functions), select C.Fn II: Image, and HTP will be the third item.
The bottom line with this camera is that every time that the light is too low to achieve 100 or 200 ISO, we are stuck with a very slow shutter.
You might need to shine a light into the lens to get a low ISO, then fine tune with exposure compensation (the Big Wheel on the back.)
Tell me, it's possible to shoot at a high speed shutter and a high ISO setting?
Would this be helpful to reduce the jello/rolling shutter undesired effect?
This would look nice I think.
Just depending to get around this issues to buy one for me.
Thanks
Also, the rolling shutter is the same regardless of settings. The one trick to reduce it is to crop your video to 720p, rather than scaling it.
Alas, I'm still at a loss for the magic frame rate that will approximate a "filmier" look.. For now, the only solution that I've found is shooting at 30fps for 24fps playback..
I'm working on posting my video results as well..
Best of luck!
Thanks for getting back to me regarding the least video-ey frame rates.. I'll keep you posted..
I'm planning an art film short. It will have no dialog. All of the sound will be done offline (like our film The Last Outpost.) We will slow everything down to 24p. I'll just direct the actors to move quickly when we want real time. If it looks strange, that will be an advantage for our film!
And, of course, you can do timelapse at 24p. See our lawnmower film for an example.
BTW, there is a guy who has already hacked the audio auto gain and seems to be on the hunt for more 5D2 goodness...
dvinfo.net/conf/canon-eos-5d-mk-ii-hd/235535-homebrew-firmware-5d-mark-2-a.html
dvinfo.net/conf/canon-eos-5d-mk-ii-hd/235578-poll-name-new-firmware-project.html
Your 30 for 24p project should come out nice!
It sounds like something that Michel Gondry would come up with..
Why shutter speed important in shooting video? thanks