I travel for the best part of the year looking for waves to ride, trying to keep that burning flame of surf addiction alight.
The last surf trip i went on was to Indonesia where i was woken in the middle of the night by my first earthquake, it was merely a tremor mind and the bed that i was laying on hardly moved, but i felt it and i was awake in the middle of the night in a strange dark place, my brain was telling me to raise the alarm save the world but i was rigid with fear and all i could do was lay there and think of what i should be doing.
Eventually i came to my senses and walked down to the waters edge to see if the sea was still there, it was but that didn't help me go back to sleep.
Traveling the world and surfing is such an eye opener for me, I learn so much from watching other people live from day to day, people, culture, waves and long days in the sun and then just like that I'm home again.
Home for me doesn't change and i love that, its what i know so well, its where i grew up, its where my best mates live and its where i know every nook and cranny of the Cornish coast like it was the back of my hand. Home will always be there but for now there is a whole world to see.
Summer time, we saw this little two day chart and got cracking, swells don't last for long at this time of the year, the waves didn't get that big but it was sunny and fun and that for me is a great summer's day at home. Welcome to episode 3 Summer Lovin.
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