Pure luck. Wanted to see waves all week. Had been in the ocean a few times. No waves or little waves. I wanted to make it up to the north shore but I just never had the time with the conference and the low speed moped.
Then, riding the moped back from Lanikai today, I look to my left and see what looks like some waves. Turns out this was Sandy Beach, part of Koko Head.
I didn't know it at the time but according to Wikipedia:
"Sandy Beach is known for its excellent bodyboarding and bodysurfing opportunities due to shore break that breaks very close to the shore. Consequently, more injuries occur per year at Sandy Beach than any other beach in Hawaiʻi, earning it the infamous nickname, "break-neck" beach."
Do I have a nose for this stuff or what??!?!? I almost added to the injury count.
I got my butt handed to me within a few minutes which quickly humbled me. My back was almost bent in half and it may never be the same. But it didn't stop me. This was just too much fun. Online trackers say it was 10-12 ft surf. Biggest I've been in.
There are good spots in the water. And there are spots that just crush you. I had no idea what I was doing at first. I just jumped right in like I have with other waves. Bad plan. Got smacked. Started to pay more attention and to respect the water.
Amazing luck. This is why it's always important to force the adventure... I had done a number of post-conference evening excursions without much luck. I was tired and was considering just relaxing until the flight home. But then... this.
More info on Sandy Beach:
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