
Terminator, The Trophy Wall: WI6 M5, 3 pitches
3 months ago
On Nov 7th 2011, Ross Berg, John Freeman, and I climbed T2 on the Trophy Wall. The conditions were excellent. We left the car at 6:30 and arrived at the alcove below the Trophy wall in approx. 2 hrs. There was little to no snow on the approach and little evidence of previous traffic.
The temps were around -10 C all day, which seamed reasonable considering it is the beginning of the season. Maybe the calm/light winds helped to make us feel more at ease.
There was evidence that a team had already climbed Terminator but on further inspection they had only climbed the first pitch (thanks boys for cleaning it for us, definitely made it more pleasant).
We climbed the route in 3 pitches. The initial pitch was the crux with some mixed climbing to access the upper ice (maybe 4-6 moves depending on how quickly you commit to the hanging dagger). The first pitch was 50m, the second pitch was 50m and the third pitch was 60 m. We brought 14 ice screws and easily placed them all on the 2nd and 3rd pitches.
The ice to the right on Replicant looks fat but sustained. Sea of Vapours is still looking like a very light butt smear, it's to ready yet!.
Hope this video helps anyone interested in going up.
Cheers Joshua
alpinesummits.blogspot.com
alpinesummits@gmail.com
The temps were around -10 C all day, which seamed reasonable considering it is the beginning of the season. Maybe the calm/light winds helped to make us feel more at ease.
There was evidence that a team had already climbed Terminator but on further inspection they had only climbed the first pitch (thanks boys for cleaning it for us, definitely made it more pleasant).
We climbed the route in 3 pitches. The initial pitch was the crux with some mixed climbing to access the upper ice (maybe 4-6 moves depending on how quickly you commit to the hanging dagger). The first pitch was 50m, the second pitch was 50m and the third pitch was 60 m. We brought 14 ice screws and easily placed them all on the 2nd and 3rd pitches.
The ice to the right on Replicant looks fat but sustained. Sea of Vapours is still looking like a very light butt smear, it's to ready yet!.
Hope this video helps anyone interested in going up.
Cheers Joshua
alpinesummits.blogspot.com
alpinesummits@gmail.com
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