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57. Transerfing
2 months ago
“Transerfing” route on Aksu mountain, Kyrgizstan, by Nefedov brothers.
5217m. high with 1500m. of vertical gain, 7b+ (5.12c) crux pitch. Pure awesomeness caught on GoPro camera.
At 15th August 2011 two brothers Sergey and Andrey Nefedov (27 and 23 years old) from Saint-Petersburg, Russia, finished their 12-days free-climbing ascent on the summit that was considered to be the most difficult and highest wall of former USSR (now CIS).
The north face has approximately 1500 vertical meters of gain. It’s the most spectacular peak in that valley.
We'd climbed the connection of two old routes (1982 by Troshchinenko and 1996 by Klenov), and named the new variant “Transerfing”. The crux pitch is 7b+. A lot of pitches from 6c to 7a+ are spread around during the ascending. (by Sergey Nefedov)
You may also see my previous video about Nefedovs:
vimeo.com/17453087
Видео о восхождении братьев Нефедовых на Аксу, первое свободное прохождение нового маршрута "Трансерфинг".
5217m. high with 1500m. of vertical gain, 7b+ (5.12c) crux pitch. Pure awesomeness caught on GoPro camera.
At 15th August 2011 two brothers Sergey and Andrey Nefedov (27 and 23 years old) from Saint-Petersburg, Russia, finished their 12-days free-climbing ascent on the summit that was considered to be the most difficult and highest wall of former USSR (now CIS).
The north face has approximately 1500 vertical meters of gain. It’s the most spectacular peak in that valley.
We'd climbed the connection of two old routes (1982 by Troshchinenko and 1996 by Klenov), and named the new variant “Transerfing”. The crux pitch is 7b+. A lot of pitches from 6c to 7a+ are spread around during the ascending. (by Sergey Nefedov)
You may also see my previous video about Nefedovs:
vimeo.com/17453087
Видео о восхождении братьев Нефедовых на Аксу, первое свободное прохождение нового маршрута "Трансерфинг".
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Nik Skavinskyedit -
Sergey Nefedovclimber
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MP4
00:11:02
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Congrats.
Guys wrote about the climb to Climbing.com and other resources but were never published (except for a little post at planetmountain).
If you're interested you may ask Sergey directly - facebook.com/profile.php?id=1164455330&ref=ts
On the wall there are another 15-20 routes but all artificial and some of them are dangerous now: wiki.risk.ru/index.php/Аксу
In the link that you gave me, there's a picture. I suspect the blue lines are aid lines? So basically, you guys started climbing in route 9 and then some 2 pitches under the big snowfield, started following route 11? What are these aid routes called? Maybe I can find something about them?
You see, I haven't climber the route nor I've been to Aksu so I can't help you with betas and topo.
Sergey would definetely not mind helping you at facebook, he's a friendly guy so go ahead and ask him.
Yes, we started climbing in route 9 and finished the Right Bastion with route 11.
From discription under the video: "We'd climbed the connection of two old routes (1982 by Troshchinenko and 1996 by Klenov), and named the new variant “Transerfing”