TO BE CLEAR: I'M TALKING ABOUT A DIFFERENCE OF 4 STOPS AND A DIFFERENCE OF 6 STOPS, BUT IN REALITY ITS A 5 STOP ZONE AND A 7 STOP FULL RANGE.
See embedded pics below for actual full rez frames (the vimeo compression is adding some banding and blockiness to the image)
A quick tutorial explaining the best way to get outstanding footage when using a DSLR camera. With this helpful guideline you'll be able to to get incredible looking footage that can be graded into amazing film-like images. For more tutorials like these as well as other tips. tricks and tools for turning your DSLR into a powerful cinematic weapon, check out ColorGHear.com and unleash the true power of your DSLR video camera.
Many people following this thread - personal-view.com/talks/discussion/1937/finding-face-exposure-on-gh2#Item_51 - have heard me talk about the 4 stop (5 if you count 0) "Target Range" (or Target Zone) for DSLRs in which you should expose your scene to get clean images that grade exceptionally well with plenty of detail in the blacks and highlights.
But I've received so many questions about what exactly I mean by "the zone system" that I put this video together to demonstrate what I mean and why. While I only touch very briefly on the actual Ansel Adams Zone System, which is way more complicated than explained herein, if you light and expose your scene using this technique, you'll never worry about macro-blocking, noisy blacks, or blown out highlights again.
And you'll be able to grade the living hell out of the footage.
(The macro blocking I'm referring to may not be readily apparent to you until you begin trying to grade the footage, which is when it rears it's ugly head.)
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