Pork foods and the pigs that become them have been part of the American table for generations.

Here in Sonoma County some of the more artisan practitioners have been leading the way to a sort of heritage pork renaissance that transcends fad or even trend in culture, moving all the way to icon. In fact, the science and culture writer Michael Pollen has even used a wild pig; stalked, shot, cooked and happily enjoyed right here in Northwestern Sonoma County, as a focal point and metaphor is his landmark book Omnivore's Dilemma.

But for the rest of us, if there’s a question or hunger for anything good and porky we know to go to John Stewart who, with his wife Duskie Estes, runs one of our favorite restaurants anywhere and makes some seriously delicious bacon.

Here he tells us how they came to be a vital part of this community, and a little about how good food happens.

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