i surfed under a full moon last night
on one side I had the big blue full moon with such vibrant rays that you would swear that someone somewhere had the biggest floodlight you could ever see saturating the whole night sky. on the other, the orange sunset so typical of autumn and disappearing behind the great dividing range filling the moving water as you slide down another wave with what looks like the most brilliant shades of orange and yellow and purple you have ever seen.
for years i have heard rumours of a crowd of people who line up parallel to the sandy beaches of coolangatta a mere 100 metres out from the shore. it only happens under a full moon
people wonder why people get addicted to surfing. here is a brief reason why.. waves are tricky. you need to wait for certain weather a long distance away to become highly unstable.
you then need to wait for the ripples created by this chaos to travel to where your coastline.
then you need to wait for a tide which changes only twice daily to provide enough water above a reef or rock or sandy bottom which can in the form of a malleable solid.
the wind then has to come from a direction from the shore moving to the sea. for most people the time at which the wind does this does not suit their lifestyle.
then you have to make sure that you are in the right place at the right break at the right time.
then you have to have the right equipment fitness stoke and whatever else to ride the water that has moved from 1000s of kilometers away. that is surfing. now think about night surfing.... you have the wind, rocks, tides, boards, time and LIGHT.
the fullmoon surf was a little eerie when looking out to sea at the trawlers and not knowing how far or close they were. a wave would come and you would ride forever on 2 foot crystal glistening peelers around the rocks and into rainbow bay. the waves sparkle the whole way in by the lights from the apartments and hotels that surround the coastline around this part of the world.
it was different. it was awesome
there were two other people out.
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