Azerbaijan is split.

Stroll down the Caspian waterfront in Baku, shop in Calvin Klein and dine in lavish surrounds. Stop by for a game of nard and slip a little something to the police when you skip the lights. Take a $15 taxi ride.

Step away to the mountains where scudding clouds, natural gas vents, shit as fuel and washed away roads are more the spirit, visible when you're not playing nard and funding the police checkpoints - or shelling out for a duvet for the night

Split, yet united by ripping off the foreigner, nard and bribes; that's how I see Azerbaijan.

For a comprehensive view of my blogs, podcasts, photos and videos, see timothyway.co.uk.

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