First Dutch ascent of the Moonflower buttress, Mount Hunter, Alaska
"One of the 'Big Three' in the Alaska Range, Mount Hunter (14,570 ft, 4496m) is considered the most difficult fourteener in North America and perhaps in the world. For what Mount Hunter lacks in Height compared to its taller neighbors, it makes up bulk and complexity. The North Buttress is the technical showpiece on Mount Hunter and it is considered a world class climbing objective. For even the even the best´s worlds climbers an ascent is a career defining achievement. The soaring tower stands prominent above Katilthna Base camp. Even an untrained eye may notice the thin ribbons of ice intertwining down sheer granite cliff bands and buttresses. These are the natural passage ways that allow modern alpinists to ascend the intimidating buttress. The sheer 1200 meter granite buttress replete with difficult ice, rock, mixed and aid climbing sees only a few attempts every season. The buttress does not succumb easily and despite some good attempts no one climbed to the buttress top from 2002 to 2005. " - Joe Puryear, Alaska Climbing, Supertopo –
We did it! Roeland and I have climbed the North Buttress of Mount Hunter via the Moonflower route (Bibler & Klewin), topping out just above the technical difficulties (Bibler Come Again exit). From May 21 to 23rd we spend 76 hours for the total round trip from base camp with 2 bivouacs in the face on the first and the third ice field. We did not continue to the top of Mount Hunter due to dubious weather conditions in the last 24 hours, snow and heavy clouds. More info - williamvanmeegdenburg.com -
Who are William and Roeland?
William van Meegdenburg is a passionate climber, an independent management consultant and gives lectures and seminars. He undertook several expeditions in recent years and climbed in the Alps, Peru, Nepal and India. William lives in Lausanne - Switzerland and is about to start with the German mountain guide training.
Roeland van Oss is one of the eight Dutch mountain guides. He is based in Chamonix, where he works full time as a mountain guide. He also gives lectures, is a sports teacher and ski instructor. Roeland climbed many faces in the Alps and went to the K2 (Pakistan) in 2008 with Wilco van Rooijen. He also went on expeditions to Peru and Russia.
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