I asked a Buenos Aires resident if he could recommend a tango club frequented by natives. I wasn't interested in seeing a "show." I wanted to see ordinary people who are passionate about tango.

The Plaza Bohemia Tango Club was exactly what I was looking for. It appeared that most of the dancers knew each other, and probably go there week after week. Only a handful sat as "couples." Instead, the women sat along one wall with the men opposite. With a subtle nod of the head the man signals his interest in dancing with a woman. Then he approaches and they move to the dancefloor. Usually they chat briefly while standing close, and then the man would hold the woman close and, together, they'd feel for the beat for a measure or two and then launch into movement.

This was the last dance of the night. The man is the DJ and host.