For Marios Schwab, the technique of airbrushing evokes a certain sexuality that is omnipresent in his femme fatale. Amorphous forms appear and disappear, contouring the body in a way reminiscent even of an Allen Jones piece. Ghostly clouds caress the surface; as if a relief of the body, highlighting its uppermost areas in an almost sculptural manner and revealing a skin-deep sensuality that lies beneath.
Some pieces hint at the designer’s scratching of the surface to expose a rather beautiful rawness which continues in an unexpected treatment of indigo denim and its apposition with soft, whimsical lace. Fabrics are wrapped around the female form and closed with the hard grip of staples, while sinuous ribbons are sharply contradicted by their harness-like attachment. A fresh colour palette, centred around rose gold metal and Yves Klein’s blue, gives a utilitarian tone that embraces and envelops the body itself.
A graphic framework thus complements a soft silhouette and brings together a spring/summer collection that juxtaposes the body’s organic contours with those put upon it, and ultimately gives rise to the natural energy underneath.
This season sees Marios Schwab collaborate for the first time with traditional Greek sandal makers Pantelis Melissinos and his father ‘The Poet Sandal Maker’. Crafting an authentic yet contemporary collection, inspiration has been drawn from the artistic nature of the family-led business whose wearers have included Jacqueline Onassis, Sophia Loren and Maria Callas.
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