With the canvasses pressed and darted as well as the foreparts the two are basted together, this process is know as "canvassing off". The canvas is laid flat in the table with the forepart draped on top of it. The chest darts are matched, one on top of the other, the top button position is noted by a notch in the canvas edge is lined up with the mark stitch on the forepart. The break line is checked to be sure the haircloth is aligned.
Tailors often talk of stretching the cloth over the canvas, that may have been common practise in days of old, but nowadays with light weight cloth and canvasses one must be sure not to get too much length in the body canvas. The coat should be cleaned off over the canvas with a small amount of length allowed below the button position. This is then complemented by the drawing of the bias tapes on the front edge as well as fullness added to the facing.
A bridle is added to the break line to shape the canvas over the chest and prevents the break line from buckling when the coat is buttoned.
Please keep on eye out for season two "Facing and Forepart lining".
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