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84. Four Mile Fire
1 year ago
81. As It Happens
1 year ago
80. borneo 5min
1 year ago
79. KCC 2k10
1 year ago
78. TAWOCHE 2k10 dispatches #5
2 years ago
66. Like a Prayer
2 years ago
“This is our decision to live fast and die young.
We've got the vision, now let's have some fun.
Yeah it's overwhelming, but what else can we do?
Get jobs in offices and wake up for the morning commute?”

MGMT

As we told our sponsors before the climb, we’ve gone rogue like Sarah Palin. We are off the grid…

As we wake up battered and depleted, everything points us towards bailing. Only we are too hard headed to concede defeat, not realizing in fact that we are just too stupid to know when to call it. We haven’t had water in a day or so…but who needs hydration anyway? Talking with this degree of cottonmouth makes me sound like I am speaking in tongues…Renan looks at me with confused, puffy eyes. Are we really going up? I am as confused as him…the answer is a surprisingly emphatic ‘yes!’

I dodge rocks as Renan leads through some choss. He short fixes, I jug, dry heave, swing leads, dry heave more, and suck down hard candies like an addict locked in the throes of withdrawals. I can’t wait for the snow, for the water, but we still have hours to go before we get there…if we get there. But the unspoken common ground is that we are down to go up…

As are artists, we are locked in a constant struggle between what we want to capture, and the energy our bodies can afford to give. It’s an instinct to reach for the camera, but one that nearly always falls second to the tasks at hand. Often times, I criticize myself for not shooting more…for not nailing the perfect image…but then again, I am fighting just to move. As athletes, we are succeeding, but as creative individuals, we are flailing…it hurts.

There are multiple points in any given day, during any given hour, or on any given pitch, where I want more than anything to call it in. I want to yell up at Renan that I’ve had it. I can’t swallow, can’t talk…can barely breath, and all of it makes me want to descend. I know he feels the same because I can see it in his face. But our mouths stay shut, moving upwards steadily as a cohesive unit. No, it doesn’t make any sense…but we’ve never pretended to understand. Life is reduced to a consecutive series of familiar motions. Our arms begin to cramp due to lack of fluid. The glands in our mouths stop producing saliva. We are dried up…

All the variables in the equation equal out towards descent. But math was never my strong point…apparently Renan suffers from the same learning disabilities.

c & r
  • Traventure Man 2 years ago
    Wow, dude! Your stuff rocks! (Pun intended)
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  • DevilsEP 2 years ago
    There really is SOMETHING with motto "Never Stop Exploring". You guys are really up to the limits!!
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  • lisa buckley 2 years ago
    FRick Cory! be careful! i cant decide if this is stupid awesome or just stupid. At the moment i have a foot in each kiddy pool. im wating for the water balloon to take flight and knock me in a direction. love you core!! Renan, please be the voice of reason!! :)
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  • Marty Blumen 2 years ago
    Like them all. Nice. Question: How live are the dispatches?

    When did you summit? Thanks.
  • renan ozturk plus 2 years ago
    thx for checking them out!! They are mostly edited the same day as we upload but the summit dispatch was delayed a few days when our sat modem blew up and we had to hike to a signal. We summited on saturday (the sherpa new year) and were back in basecamp by sunday eve. The summit dispatch was a bit less "live" because the climb was broken up into 2 pieces.
  • Marty Blumen 2 years ago
    Cool as.
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  • Paul Lapides 2 years ago
    This is so awesome, you guys rock! Congrats on summiting!
    Are you editing this stuff at your bivies or in basecamp after coming down?
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  • lisa buckley 2 years ago
    OK im bowing, that was rad. Congratulations you two!
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  • Lloyd Lindsay 2 years ago
    2:30 epic back drop.
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  • markjobman 2 years ago
    Epic Adventure. Nicely Done. Stoked every-time I see a new dispatch.
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  • Paul Hassell plus 2 years ago
    Renan. What fuzzy are you using for audio?
  • renan ozturk plus 2 years ago
    zoom h4n with a redhead..
  • renan ozturk plus 2 years ago
    also mke 400 with lots of gorilla tape!
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  • Paul Hassell plus 2 years ago
    Thanks R!

    and how about for your voice-over recordings?
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  • Jakub Bluj 2 years ago
    congratulations!
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  • Maryam 2 years ago
    Congratulations!
    You guys are machines... 36 hrs dry & at that altitude, then to start that vertical ice wall!
    Amazing.... & the dispatches are addictive, I've posted them all on FB!
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  • Rafael Rosengarten 2 years ago
    What kind of camera(s) did you guys haul up the mountain?

    Nice work!
  • renan ozturk plus 2 years ago
    1 GH1 (with a 7-14mm and a 20mm 1.7) and 1 Mark 2 5D (with a 24-105mm)
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  • Videoclimb.com 2 years ago
    Guys, I'm totally addicted to your dispatches! Keep going, this is great!
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  • Gambella Leo 2 years ago
    Congratulations man!! I really liked (very muchhhh) the work they did. Make more...... hug .....
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  • Joe Whittle 2 years ago
    so inspiring man! thanks for keeping us at the edge of our seats back home! seriously let me know if you're ever in eastern oregon i've got the low down on some of the least known climbing spots in the country! love to see you feature a backcountry climb in the wallowa mountains on your blog someday! we've got more peaks over 9,000 feet here (31) than any other range in the pacific northwest, and the largest wilderness area in oregon! (eagle cap wilderness.) not too mention hells canyon, the deepest gorge in north america, if your into white water rafting, salmon and sturgeon fishing, and over 500 very seldom climbed granite and basalt routes. or in the eagle caps, show me some tricks with that 5d and i'll show you some terrifying unclimbed limestone big walls. (didn't say i'd climb them with you!) cheers, and keep the adventure footage coming!

    windinglightadventures.blogspot.com/
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  • Joe Whittle 2 years ago
    ps- we've also got the best pow in all of oregon during the winter months if you're willing to skin up to it! i know the only backcountry yurt tenders in the area who can take you to the sweetest lines in oregon! happy to tour guide if you ever make it this way! fair exchange for these great inspiring posts!
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  • eddieringer plus 2 years ago
    awesome series, really we done.
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  • Rick Macomber plus 2 years ago
    congrats!!! I enjoyed watching the series. Only wish I could see a longer version. Any chance of a re-edit?
  • renan ozturk plus 1 year ago
    ...coming to mtn film festival circuit soon... premier is at 5point in carbondale
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  • ÅndersonCentral plus 2 years ago
    love the shot (post climb) of smoking a celebratory fatty... nice work on all of it.
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  • Jeff Schaefer 2 years ago
    What fstop bag did I see in the video? And what all are you carrying in it?
  • renan ozturk plus 2 years ago
    the navin i believe...cool product! just the 5D mark2 inside...
  • Jeff Schaefer 1 year ago
    awesome thank you!
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  • Dave Chenault 2 years ago
    Sick balls Renan. Alwasy good to see you livin' it.
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  • Grissi 2 years ago
    Fabulous guys.... and if I can give you a kind of advice... live fast and life long... that´s what I wish all adventurous people like you!!! All the best...!!!

    Camila
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  • The Provo Bros plus 2 years ago
    Man, you guys are climbing some of the gnarliest shit on earth, and making brilliant films while doing so. RESPECT! and thanks for the inspiration
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  • Jon Massey plus 2 years ago
    Work of art! The climb and the videos. Can't wait for more.
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  • Vilmar Luiz 1 year ago
    just awesome!! guys, you show what is a real adventure!! amazing!! congratulations!! the photography, the movie... everything is perfect.
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  • Alastair Humphreys 1 year ago
    Brilliant!
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  • John Carrithers plus 1 year ago
    I don't know how I found your videos Renan, but I'm glad I did. You're my new hero. Keep it up! It's inspiring.
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  • You're climbing what looks like a scary freaking mountain while making an awesome film while you're at at? I'm stunned.
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  • peter herman 1 year ago
    fantastic trip, excellent climb...what can we expect more...
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  • Stephen Madden 2 weeks ago
    What were you smoking during the scene after you guys reached the summit? Btw this whole series is pure nostalgia :)
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