Boards are shaped by shapers, boards are then ridden by surfers, eventually finding their way into a garage, buried by newer and more cherished craft. Occasionally palmed off for a case of beer or a days labour, boards are a commodity among frugal surfers.
They all have their time, ridden and goaded over, receiving that first and crucial wax job on the day of purchase. Handed around for mates to hold, not ride mind you, and to give their opinion on shape, length and rail curvature. The honeymoon period doesn’t last forever of course, the board gets a few minor dings, hastily repaired if it’s a month out from the shapers. Any longer and the ding stays. The board begins to fade in colour, yet it rides so well now! Worked in and foot marks appear in the wax. This is the hay day of that board buddy, enjoy it while it lasts!
Although some boards are destined to stay atop the pile, ridden on particularly suited occasions, most fall by the wayside like fallen Hollywood stars, washed up, yet still capable of playing a minor role.
What many forget, throughout the lifetime of their board, is the knowledge and determined skills that have shaped that craft underfoot. Years spent in the bay shaping and refining designs, putting boards out for your disposal, only to be left for dead when the next five foot nothing square tail Reynolds/Andino colab appears on the market.
Board Stories takes an informative and intriguing look at the different craft people choose to ride.