"When I was asked to make a video about Dani Andrada, at first I was super psyched and was looking forward to shooting it. Then, I realized that I had never filmed sport climbing, or even taken my camera on a rope (except to film a highball) and that I would not have time to try even once before going there. So I went to Catalunya not knowing what to except and quite nervous about screwing up while on the rope... Now that I am back, I only want to try shooting routes again!
If you are looking for a pure action video, this is not what this is. This is more of a 'video illustrated interview'. If you want to know more about Dani and his motivations, you are at the right place :-)
Dani has a strong reputation and all I can say is that he is as motivated as you would expect him to be. He is either climbing or bolting, or doing both in a day. He just never stops. And on top of that he is a genuine good person spending most of his non climbing time rebolting older routes to keep Siurana safe.
Weather was not kind with us, having fog, rain and very strong winds but it gave us some very intense tries in Siurana (sorry for the shakiness in La Rambla but I could not fight such wind...). And like Dani says, if you can do it in bad conditions, you will feel stronger when conditions get better..."
- Haroun Souirji
Music licensed from WithEtiquette.com and MelloMusicGroup.com
PS: the video was shot and edited in a very wide cinema aspect ratio. This is a test to see how well it could fit climbing. I couldn't stress enough that it looks best on a real TV so if you have a nice, big flat screen at home, download the movie (link on the right) and watch it there!
For the filmmakers out there. Equipment used:
Cameras // Canon 7D, 60D, 550D
Lenses // Canon TS-E 24mm L, Canon Fish Eye 8-15 L, Canon 24-105 L, Canon 50mm 1.4, Tokina 11-16 2.8, Sigma 30mm 1.4, Sigma 105mm 2.8 Macro, maybe forgot one
Stabilization and more // Glidecam HD-2000 steadycam, RedRockMicro DSLR shoulder rig, Kessler Philip Bloom Pocket Dolly
Audio // Zoom H4N field recorder, Rode shotgun mic, Mitra 3D Mic Pro, Sennheiser EW 100-ENG G2 wireless kit
Equipment for future videos will be detailed in posts on my website! (when it's done...)
I was invited to give a presentation at the Yosemite Facelift 2010, a park wide clean up event originally started by climbers and spearheaded by Ken Yager. The Facelift is now the largest National Park clean up in the country and has moved beyond just climbers to people from all walks of life!!! For my last few slideshows, I have showed up a day early to shoot and edit a short video that I show as part of my presentation. I feel like it's a unique and original element of my show, and people are psyched to see something created in real time! However, the amount of work that this entails is pretty ridiculous, and usually at around Five A.M. after a sleepless night of editing, I swear that I will never do it again. This particular "In A Day" installment features some of Yosemites Top "Unheard Of" climbers, an overview of the Facelift, and then, Yosemites Best Climber crushing blood from the stone!!!
The world's greatest, untapped rock is in Armenia, a place you likely can't even find on a map. Watch as Sam Bie and Alex Chabot tour this stellar stone, putting up first ascents in what will very soon become the place to go trad climbing.
A couple of months ago I had the extreme pleasure of repeating Moonlight as a free climb. Moonlight buttress is probably the single best sandstone bigwall freeclimb in the world and to manage to scrap up it first try no falls was one of the highlights of my year, and sharing it with my bride to be made it even more special. This piece is a mix of 5d mark ii footage and timelapses shot on terrafirma mixed with iphone 4 footage! I brought my iphone up the climb accidentally and then figured I might as well shoot a little video while I was up there!! And so, a video short was born!!!
In an era of sport climbers, and boulderers, Boulder Local Nellie Milfeld stands out as a talented and bold traditional climber. This short movie is brought to you by BlueWater Ropes, and features Nellie crushing "Arms Bazaar" a 5.12aR at Bells Buttress in Boulder Colorado.