Surf / Morning Mashup
EVERYONE was down on the beach at first light to greet the meat of the swell.
Soo much north in the swell it ended-up missing the main event but piling into spots like Rockpiles going triple overhead and smashing people, baords and egos. Looks like more north swell on the way meaning that the place to be isn't going to be Pipe.
"Getting up early to surf as something to treasure that's for sure" said a stoked Parko, just happy to be back surfing.