Taken just after the Pro Final, really stoked to come away with 3rd in Pacasmayo! This was a great wave caught by Kevin Pritchard (camera owner and Jet Ski driver) and Simon Crowther (filmer and nauseous backseat rider). This is hardly the cleanest, longest, or best ridden wave from this incredible week, but it was recorded expertly and so I think it should be shared!
It’s the most Peaceful 3 minutes anyone could ask for, a gentle, rolling wave… Unlike anything I’ve experienced. A person actually has time to contemplate what’s happening between the Ocean and Him. His Face, and the Wind whispering, repeating the same song for eternity across this stretch of coast. This Coast in which a million waves have broken down in the same way, and will continue long after you and I are gone and forgotten. The Sea dances in perfect rhythm just as each Muscle repeats the same sequence, turn after satisfying turn. A Board, sliding across the water, as your medium between two feet and all the electric, pulsating, ebbing and flowing, energy of the ocean. And the Wave. Crashing with grace, a beautiful death. Like holding the hand of a doomed stranger and in it’s final hour, becoming true friends. By the time the wave is over, this person can feel he has learned from it’s life.
For me, it’s a glimpse into eternity, an ancient message ringing out through time… Everything is cyclical, the life and the death of a thing blending together. Like energy, impossible to destroy, only capable of transformation, the Tides of the Universe take away the old and return with something new, but somehow the same. Just as each peeling wave is a replica of it’s ancestors... and through it all, Love, like a cosmic wind, keeps us sailing on course to our Destinies.