This was the first hour of one of what ended up being one of the best sessions of my life. I was on a trip deep in the wilderness of Chile with my old girlfriend who was studying in Valparaiso. We stayed for six days and the waves got better each day until the swell peaked on the fourth day with light offshore conditions. I surfed my brains out until dark and went back to our cabin and charged my go pro. I had one of their stretchy head mounts which I wrapped around my neck nearly choking myself out to ensure I didn't loose the camera. We woke before the sunrise and drove down the sand track to point with our friend Ricardo. It was still pumping with well overhead sets coming in consistently with no one out. We paddled out and got empty waves for 30 mins before a local joined us. This footage was my first handful of waves until the camera fogged up and I dropped it on the beach. The next 4 hours the tide dropped and the waves got incredible with only 10 people on the point sharing and hooting. After the session one of the locals told me we got the best day of the year.


camera/edit- cyrus sutton
surfboard ridden- 5'8" quad-fin fish handshaped by jake moss

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