I made my first trek around Annapurna in the 1980s, and it was a very powerful experience. I wanted to share that experience with my wife, and so I returned to trek the Annapurna Circuit with her in 2008. Much has changed in the 20 years since I last trekked the circuit. A road now runs parallel to the trail, and so it is possible to shorten the walk, and bypass certain villages. On my first trek around the circuit, we walked into Pokhara, finishing the trek along the shore of Lake Phewa. These days most trekkers take a bus or taxi into Pokhara. The presence of the road, and the small villages near Pokhara that used to support trekkers finishing the last few days have all but disappeared. The road is necessary for the region to progress, but for the trekkers, some of the magic and adventure of visiting a land that time seemed to have forgotten is lost.
But the variety and majesty of the landscape, and the heart and soul of its people, still make this trek a worthwhile addition to anyone's bucket list.