In France, chickens raised in Bresse are so renowned that they have their own controlled use of the name “Bresse,” and a special metal tag attached to the leg. The chickens are raised free-range, and are often corn-fed. For this dish, a Bresse chicken is dressed with truffles, trussed, and poached. It is served with blanched baby vegetables. This type of chicken dish is called “demi-deuil,” “half mourning,” because of the black color of the truffles slipped under the chicken skin. Lacking a Bresse chicken, start with the best free-range chicken you can buy. Serve the dish in its traditional manner: Bring it to the table whole with its poaching liquid and baby vegetables in a large silver bowl or tureen to show your guests, then return it to the kitchen, carve it, and return it to the table on plates garnished with the baby vegetables and sauce.