'Today, with the Internet at our fingertips, seven-day forecasts, swell maps, and wind charts, it is easy to get carried away when it comes to the next blip on the system. It’s Tuesday and you’re already getting calls about the weekend. “Where should we surf? Where should we go? Yeah, I think it will be on. The wind sucks on Sat morning, but then it swings and the period pulses…Geez it’s going to be cooking!”
Then you have four days to dream up visions of how good it is going to be. It is a blessing, but also a burden, that the human psyche is very positive. What I mean is, when you look forward to something, it’s not like you imagine it is going to be shit, do you? So when you have days to build on your imagination it often becomes the case that reality doesn’t live up to the projection of the mind. So what is the answer? How do you set yourself up so you’re not just hit back down?
Read the full story and be immersed in the trip here: issuu.com/damagedgoodszine/docs/10_halves
Surfers: Luke Hynd, Alex Dive & Sean Kettle
Directed by: Thomas Edgar & Jereme Aubertin
Video: Tom Smith
Song: Death and the Maiden 'Flowers for the Blind'