Fishbar features a long brick room with distressed floors, simple wooden tables and industrial metal chairs. It's clean and fresh and just a bit saline from the ice-filled buckets of fresh oysters. It's a reassuring aroma; the place smells like a seafood restaurant should.

The blithe, tapas-style menu balances culinary ambition with good old-fashioned fun. For every sophisticated steelhead-trout rillette, smooth, gently seasoned and served in a little hinged jar with creamy cap of fat, there's an Oyster Pogo: cornmeal-battered oysters on a stick with a tomatillo salsa that tastes like butter-pickle relish. It's the kind of thing they might serve at an amusement park for billionaires.

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