What does the well-dressed scientist wear in Antarctica? (Many layers). How does that researcher live in an environment where ice and air are the only naturally occurring building materials? (With much logistical support). Why conduct research at the end of the world? (Best sky effects in the world, and a fascinating place). In answering these and many more questions, physicist Robert Greenler draws on two research seasons in Antarctica, in 1977 and, 21 years later, in 1997-98.