Best results yet. I used manual settings for the day to night (sunny 16 rule + 30sec exposure at f2.8 iso 100, opacity fading to get between the two exposure settings hence the misaligned foreground and grey/whiteness in my attempt to make this less apparent) and then I used aperture priority for the 2nd day (but still had to do an opacity fade from the manual stuff and also, I'm not really liking the sunny 16 rule as it looks too sharp...just not as pleasing as something at a larger aperture). I had the white balance at 3200k and probably should have kept it more around 5500k. Made the night sky more exposed and blue in post by applying a masked adjustment layer in post that separated the patio area from the sky.
Oh, and the white dots at the begining, I didn't see those in AE so I'm thinking it might be the encoding of the .264 codec somehow relating to the post contrast I applied to the layer*shrugs*
I'm realizing that the lens shouldn't be tilting back as much as I've been tilting it...Keeping things in the foreground makes the shot more interesting (I would say "epic", but that word gets used too much these days and I've been falling into that trap of using it too much as of late). I used only one handwarmer under the lens with the whole camera in an optec rain coat and it was pretty dewy that night and the whole shebang' stayed dry. I had a thought that using two warmers might be better so if one fails the other can ensure the night isn't wasted.
Also, I need to get a small netbook to keep with the telescope mount to run the time is motion software as my laptop is too large/overheats/would dew up/consumes too much power to leave with the head so I've been having to unplug the serial port adapter once the head reached it's max velocity and then replugging it in to change direction.