Sept 5/2011 Brent Philips and I went up to the Cerise Creek hut to climb the Twisting Couloir on the North East Face.
We arrived late at the cabin and quickly cooked up dinner then set the alarm for a 3:15 am wake up call.. Something about these early alpine starts that keep me awake at night thinking I'm going to miss the alarm. I'm likely better just to stay up or get going :-/
We left the cabin a bit later than hoped but the approach went smooth in the dark and we were roped up and down to the real climbing by 7:30 am. ( The glacier gave a huge groan just as we stepped over the moat..-fuck I hate that !!
The guidebook suggests 12-15 pitches @ 9-13 hrs.
Brent and I simu-climbed all but 3 pitches and finished the actual climbing in 4 hrs. The couloir itself was an amazing situation to be in and the last 250m was outstanding SNICE with the odd bit of dirty blue at 60-65 deg perfect sticks to the summit. Incredible stair master with screaming calfs begging for a little shake out.
We arrived at the summit to a party rescuing a pack that the Central Couloir had claimed in the winter when a cornice gave way..must have been a close call :-O.
We descended the Southeast face back to the hut.
I'll be putting this one high on the "Ski Descent list"