A multi-pitch trad climb is illustrated starting with the flaking of the rope. Special focus is given to the belay transition, or lead swapping between the first and second pitches.

Produced: Deling Ren
Shot, Edited: Luke Humphrey
Climbers: Deling Ren, Liang Chen
Production/Technical Assistance: Yinan Zhao

Crevasse Rescue Video: youtube.com/watch?v=y6gz6WaO1_0

Additional cinematography by Luke: vimeo.com/channels/lukefeatured#27133765

Camera Equipment: 5D MKII, 70-200 2.8, 16-35 2.8, Sachtler FSB-8

Thanks for all the feedback since we posted the video. To answer a few questions:

1. No ground anchor on first pitch. Because the first pitch is shorter than half rope and is not a traverse, there is no need for a ground anchor. If there is a chance you need to escape the belay, you need a ground anchor.

2. The yellow climber didn't clip the anchor before leading out. Yes, ideally he should do that to avoid a factor 2 fall, as well as a downward force on the belayer. We omitted because the first couple of moves are very mellow, and the first piece (0.5 C4) is placed fairly low. We should revise that when we get a chance.

3. No upward piece at the belay anchor. Both climbers are about the same weight. The pitch is slabby (i.e. lots of friction). Even if the leader takes a relatively big fall, say factor 0.4, the peak force on the belayer is only 1.1 kN, only a little more than his body weight. We are not very concerned about the belayer being lifted pass the pieces. What's more, that #3 C4 is placed in a perfect horizontal crack.

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