Surfing is my telephone cord to spirit

Surfing is my telephone cord to spirit

My life has gotten so full and so serious that sometimes I forget to be spontaneous.

I was in the Swamis parking lot before I went to Greece and some guy walked up to me and said, “Ugh—these guys need a cute chick for this—“ “No”, I said.

Then these 3 really kind guys bashfully walked up to me from Texas who had hearts and eyes and spirits as big as Texas, too. A girl they were meant to film a lifestyle clip with had bailed and they flew out the next day.

They were kind and I’ve made films and understand how much it hurts to see something and not have someone show up. “Be spontaneous”, my spirit said.

So we filmed this in 30 minutes. “What are you going to do for audio?”, I asked.

They weren’t sure. “Do you have a microphone?”, I asked.

We hopped in one of the guys Van and I just started to talk.

This is what came of it.

Surfing is my connection to spririt—to the natural world—and to myself. Here is where I harbour my magic, connect with self and dance with the water to begin my day.

Sometimes people say, “Could you write more if you surfed less?” I wouldn’t have words worth saying if I didn’t take care of myself. Without surfing there are no poems.

They are intertwined to me.

Please note: The men who filmed this asked to be kept anonymous.