I think back to a year ago, I was just out of hospital, hobbling around on crutches after undergoing some pretty major open surgery on my left hip. After the surgeon said the damage was worse than they'd seen in a long time I was sure I'd never surf the way I wanted to again.
Well it took a while.. but after a year of pain and doubt I did.. and damn it felt good!
This is a little edit I knocked together out of all the odds n ends I came back with from this last trip to Bali.
The surf was pumping pretty much every day and although our bluewater spearfishing trip was cut short due to bad weather.. we managed some epic freediving on a wreck up on the North coast instead. Shoulda taken some of those anti-moisture packets for the Gopro cos it seemed to fog up every time I turned it on - Damn that humid air - missed some great footage but.. for once.. I kinda forgot about the filming and just enjoyed being in such an amazing place with such a great crew of people!
Music: The Glitch Mob "Between two Points"
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