Wild Country sponsored climber, the Italian Michele Caminati has made the first repeat of 'Screaming Dream' (UK grade E7 7A) as a highball boulder problem above pads.
The route was first climbed by Mark Leach in 1987 and as a testament to how hard the climbing is the route has only seen 5 ascents in 25 years. All of these were led and those most recently used pre-placed and pre-clipped Friends above the crux, in effect creating a top rope to protect the climber.
However, Michele’s solo or highball ascent now opens up the line to those looking for an excellent highball Font 8a boulder problem!
His ascent is perhaps even more impressive coming only two days after a pretty terrifying fall from 8 metres on the 2nd crux of New Statesman E8 7a, at Ilkley.
See more about Michele here:http://bit.ly/HgPUmQ