Here's my first attempt at leading coarse and buggy. I was resting on a piece at the upper crux (minute 12) and the piece pulled. I fell about 15 feet onto the next piece down. Exciting! My belayer caught me in the air for a split second during the fall. The piece was a blue metolius master cam, and I had it placed in a slightly flaring crack. Just above where the piece was placed there is a much better option - you can slot the piece down inside a crack and get a much more solid placement. The battery on my gopro died before I finished the lead. Unfortunate! I guess I need to climb faster. I top roped this climb clean after I finished the lead. I was stoked to lead it, and really stoked I got the route clean after leading it!
This climb is amazing, and probably my favorite climb in Joshua Tree. The dihedral stemming portion is very leg/core intense. The upper portion is also very stemmy (the way I climb it), and in my mind is more difficult than the lower crux, although other people seem to differ on this. It may actually be easier, but the pump factor makes it very difficult after climbing the lower portion.
This is a true Joshua Tree classic! A must do for anyone leading in the .11a/b range.
Thanks to Ross for being patient with me and catching this on video!