Have you ever heard the crunch of a bone as you land a backside air-reverse in a Balinese shorebreak? Or, the sound of six screws being drilled into the fibula you just broke? Or, the sound the metal plate in your ankle makes when you tap it, while you’re watching friends surf? Or, the sound of your first wave after nine weeks’ recovery? Or, the sound of a faint pop in your other ankle, on an awkward landing after only eight weeks back in the soup? And then, finally, the sound of torrential

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