"When performance isn’t wowing, better choose some beautiful climbing to stay psyched...". After a summer with only some bouldering I am retaking some steps towards route climbing. "Le lézard communiste" (8c/8c+) at the Jansegg, near the Gastlosen in Fribourg/Switzerland is the first of them. It took me about 15 tries to send this line of outstanding rock and crazy moves on the incomparable "shield" up at 1800 meters.
On a athletic 8a+ traversing part on good holds follows a moderate rest. The next 10 moves are one of the best I've ever climbed regarding the techniques and the holds. The boulder is about 7C+ and finishes in a good rest with a 10 meters 7a+ to the anchor. And this exit was just the easy one for this year. Instead the 7C+ there is waiting a 8B/8B+ on the original line. A nice 9a+ for next summer :)!