Di Fara’s signature pizza is the square pie, often known around NYC as the “Sicilian." This pizza is heavy; not only from the crust, but from the cheese and sauce layered on top. It’s also New York-sized, meaning Italian onlookers might question why it’s double the size of what they’re used to. The crust is fairly spongy like a crisp, airy focaccia of about 3/4 of an inch thick. Thanks to the deep, heavy pan in which it is baked, the underside is always on the fine border of crispy brown and burnt black, with just a hint of charred flavor adding complexity to the flavor. Holding below the crust makes the excess flour sand off in a fine powder, conveniently absorbing excess oil that may have spilled overboard. His sauce tastes slightly of pork fat and ground bits of pancetta, a blend that contributes to a meaty tomato sauce with surprisingly little hint of smokiness. Molten islands pools of fresh mozzarella bubble on the smoking red sauce when the pie emerges from the oven. A bit of basil gets snipped on top, and the challenge begins — do you have the patience to wait to dig in, or will that first delicious mouthful be consolation for a newly-scorched tongue?