Quelimane, the carnival capital of Africa, with its giant tiger prawns, and Bauhaus-meets-Art-Deco architecture, all in the Mozambican jungle, has lapsed into ruin.
The supermarket for this city of 230,000 lies abandoned. The railway stock has been sold for scrap.
The colonial cathedral, built in 1776, is home to a group of street kids. The bell tower, bell long gone, is now their toilet. The altar is their bed. Ten of them sleep on it at nights, like sacrificial offerings to development.
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Working Lives: Maputo
Manuel de Araujo, a former Amnesty International campaigner who is now the town's mayor, is sitting beside me in the 400-seat Cine-Teatro Aguia.
There is no roof or projector. The auditorium is flooded. Our seats are unmatched tractor tyres.
Dead ahead, blocking the screen that on opening night in 1958 showed James Dean in "East of Eden", a four-foot but luxuriant tree is sprouting.
"There will be cinema here again," says Mr Araujo. It's an ambitious vision.
But it's one he has been elected to make happen.