In January and February 2013, I lived as a temporary caretaker at the Taylor Wilderness Research Station. Taylor is 35 miles from the nearest seasonal gravel road, so the only way to access it is by hiking for several days or bush plane. It was my third visit to Taylor, but my first winter experience in the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness. The only other humans I saw were flying the (sometimes) weekly mail/grocery plane. From the front door of the cabin I could hear wolves howl, watch the ice on Big Creek, and walk in any direction into the 2nd largest wilderness in the Lower 48.