“When your time’s up, your time’s up I guess, and you’ll be judged by the impression you made on those around you.”
The first time I met Ace Buchan was in Bali in 2009. We were standing on a dirt road near Canggu, and he offered me a ride to the beach from the house Hurley was occupying at the time. I hopped on the back of his scooter with my surfboard and debated whether I should put my free hand on his shoulders or just leave it at my side. I decided on shoulder.
As the author of a children’s book, the son of a schoolteacher, and an all-around thoughtful individual, Ace has always struck me as an interesting character in professional surfing. He operates with a level of respect and common courtesy I recognize in the most successful folks I encounter. Ace is thoughtful about the words he chooses when he speaks. They’re purposeful.
In September, we sat down in the burning sun behind the Hurley Pro scaffolding and did a little interview that sheds insight into who Ace is. We talked about all sorts of stuff: How death might be eternal blackness. Love is mutual respect. And happiness is defying classification. Interesting thoughts from Mr. Buchan.
Without further ado, take a ride with Ace.
View more interviews with the most influential folks in surfing: theinertia.com/surf/adrian-ace-buchan-headspace-interview