Filmed the sections backwards so the climbing at the start is a bit slow due to being hot tired and having bad skin ... This is how I climbed it though so lots of beta here , it took me a while to work it all out , hopefully this can help someone out .
It was an epic send when I did it . I was so bumbly on the final moves that I nearly punted it three times on the final V6 ... My attempt before the send I fell at the Pet Cemetery crack ... I was thinking about the crux moves that were coming up and just barndoored off . Really hard to keep your head in check for so much climbing , you don't want to have to repeat for a dab ... Or falling on the last moves ... Trust me . Thankfully I had my head torch as I ran out of light , I hadn't even planned to head in due to having limited skin but the weather forecast for the week was terrible so took my chance , glad I did .
The very start is not bad , there's mainly good holds but a couple spots where there's no feet . There's a good rest just before you get into the first crux . There's a scary mantle onto the start of Moral Dilemma , this leads into the first and most powerful crux - the down climb of Yuppie Floozie which is pretty taxing . But there's a good rest not too far away where you can sit and rest as long as you want . The next tough section is the bit around Zillmerised it's graded V7 in the guide but i don't think it's more than a 6 , it's just a bit balancey and once again you get a good rest at the end of it . Once you have recovered a bit you start the Short Traverse it's rated V3 in the guide but that's not an accurate description , especially as the last 3 meters are likely a V4 by itself , I would say there's lots of 23 climbing but there's always a good stance not too far away which keeps it pretty casual . Once again there's a little ledge to chill on before the most insecure section - the start of the Amphitheatre . You need to keep the wobbles at bay to get around the first corner as it's a very fine line to success , i thought it might be V7 but I have no idea , it's just hard ... The rest of the Amphitheatre is powerful but on positive holds so you can always just pull harder . There's another good rest position after this . Next is a V4 ish mini crux around plumley walker that requires a rosemove which is pretty cool but it's also possible to screw it up ( which I did once when taking the footage ) more easy climbing then gets you to the Long melquiades section V5 . This is all foot smears and spanning , clean shoes are a must and it pays to just keep moving as it's pretty fatiguing and the last move is a killer . Once past this section its relaxed positive 20 ish climbing to the final rest . Then you just need to keep it together for the final V6 crux around Pet Cemetery - Silver Surfer .
The climbing itself is awesome and pure quality there's no bits where you have to come off the wall and walk or anything it's proper climbing the whole way . The quality of the rock is superb , real solid , but there is definitely some polished footholds around but then they add to the adventure . There's also a lot of different textures , formations , holds , styles , and colours too . Nothing is tweaky on the fingers , and there is a huge variety of climbing to get through . Classic .
For a bit more info -