Could you imagine? You’re going to school in Hawaii, though you’re not even old enough to legally drink, and you’ve got a thing for surf photography. You see a mutant of a swell combined with perfect conditions on Black Friday and instead of wrestling deals at the Kapolei Target, you decide you’re going to shoot some photos. It’s high season on the North Shore and the place is literally crawling with your favorite photographers. You fancy yourself an outdoorsman, and so you hike to the top of a hill to get an interesting angle. The wave of the day comes in, John John catches it, you shoot it perfectly and create a unique image from the most photographed wave on earth — that’s a lovely imagination you got there, Shane Grace.

Filmed by: Owen Milne, Alex Perez

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