For a month we stayed in a jungle shack under the nose of people paying through the nose for beachfront access to a wave. We’d heard about the resort guest only access from the road and the hour-long walk to the beach from a town two headlands away. We arrived in that town and happened upon a guy with a shack closer to the surf. We rented for the month at $5 a night and there wasn’t a lot to the place besides walls, roof and outhouse. We didn’t have electricity and only a limited amount of fresh water. We are the only white people not inside the resort, which are directly on the property border of. The five-minute walk to the beach is what makes our shack so special. The last step from the jungle to the beach reveals the wave rifling left from a small river mouth. And for regular footers, down the beach, a little to the North, are peaks offering barrelling rights.

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