strength//vulnerability. the contrast and the tension between these two emotions provided the design foundations for the palmer//harding ss15 menswear collection.
as a starting point, the duo examined the power and humility found in vintage collegiate uniforms, exploring the juxtaposing elements of the serviceable functionality with the refinement and authority with which they were worn.
reinterpreting the nostalgic, classic scholastic styling and giving it a contemporary relevance, the duo looked to their own London surroundings for inspiration and were drawn to texture. the impactful yet delicate nature of worn billboards, with torn and peeling edges that expose concealed layers of history and stories past.
through these references, the duo developed functional fabrications such as foiled closures and collars that react when crushed; fragile layering with exposed and raw edges which simultaneously nod to the idea of serviceable functionality whilst referencing the dynamic yet wistful peeling and fraying of the billboards.
against the tension of the fabrics, the palmer//harding exploration of strength//vulnerability is realised in their silhouettes. youthful and boyish boxier structures are interspersed with billowing, curling detailing, mirroring the elegant simplicity of posters catching in the breeze.
presented in a spectrum of rich summer tones, the collection showcases various shades of black, brown, and beige, metallic orange, through to classic white, with hints of blues, turquoise and purple dispersed with print.
we also see the brands first foray into printing. inspired by the torn textures of weathered urban posters; the duo have tamed the aggressive and intimidating surface to create a print that interprets the protective and robust qualities, yet embodies the fragile and yielding elements beneath.
embracing these polarised qualities, palmer//harding’s new film captures the robust strength and tender grace that is required in modern masculinity. starring sam oldham, team gb olympic gymnast, and shot by cecilie harris of boys by girls, the film portrays the athlete’s agility and power in motion, embracing both the subtleties and sweeping actions required to achieve such skill.
video - Cecilie Harris
athlete - Sam Oldham
model - Oliver Jones at Premier Model Management
hair - Cristian Pignatta at Neville using L’Oreal Professionnel
makeup - Maria Papadopoulou using MAC cosmetics
photography assistant - Cat Wilding and Rosie Williams
styling assistant - Naomi Golding
music - Actress “Birdcage”
with thanks to:
Simon Nash at Premier Model Management
Sam Graham at Mission Sports Management
James Smith at Loughborough Sports
Ruth Stevens at Jockey
Catherine McMahone at L’Oreal Professionnel