Lightness with structure and volume without weight - the dominant themes of Neil Barrett's Spring/Summer 2015 collection. Neil Barrett's design signatures and staples are eased and relaxed for summer, reinvented and perfected.
Sculptural shapes are achieved with featherlight construction: paper-fine leather, grey marl sweatshirting and suiting, light indigo denim and chino cotton are treated to give structure without stiffness.
Classic menswear shapes – the jean jacket, Harrington and biker - are reinterpreted, accentuated and given a new airiness. Crombie and parka outerwear are infused with the buoyant ease of sweatshirting. Each piece has substance, holding away from the body. Shorts are sportswear-inspired, full to the knee. Trousers are slender, track-pant style and cropped at the ankle to reveal skin.
Scaled-up zips are a key design feature, simultaneously decorative and functional. They curve around bomber necklines and are used to open layers at the side seams to add further ease to the silhouette. Nickel finishes emphasize their presence.
Roman classicism is the visual influence. The colour palette riffs on the reference, in tonal shades of marble white, slate and sandstone camel alongside metallics, combinations of black and indigo, and a single shot of vibrant limoncello.
The theme is most evident in the collection's keynote prints, featuring digitally-manipulated antique statuary - stretched, corrupted or "broken" to become camouflage, in micro or macro sizes. The lines of camouflage are also used as a decorative motif, outlined in light quilting or used as intarsia patterns.
Footwear is technical, echoing the weightless volume of the clothes with substantial, performance trainer influenced soles. These are attached to both classic Chelsea boots as well as sports sneakers in leather, denim or printed nylon combined with metallic panels.