Drywall ceiling set up is actually among the most complicated steps of hanging drywall. This is where your transformation begins, given that your ceiling will be the initial starting point . Along the way I'll be giving you some tips to ease this procedure, making it appear to be a lot less mind-boggling.
Why do drywall ceilings get this type of a terrible rap? Well it's because of the cumbersomeness of lifting the eight or 12 ft sheets over your head into area. But there are plenty of equipment that you can use to ease this task.
The most important really is a drywall jack which we remarkably suggest to install drywall ceiling. They're fairly highly-priced to purchase for personal use, but can generally be rented from your local rental shop.
Beneath is a checklist of all of the tools you need to get started.
Whoa ! Before you even start off ,
Be sure that you have prep the walls correctly. Chech out our drywall preparation page for more info on this subject
Essential Drywall Products :
Required Drywall Tools :
Circle Cutter (or Keyhole Saw for cutting holes for light fixtures)
Dimpler Bit for Drill (optional but advisable)
Drywall Lift (optional but clearly suggested)
Tips before you start off:
If your going to be setting up a ceiling fan on your freshly drywalled place ensure that the studs are put in exactly where the wiring will come down for the ceiling fan. Ceiling fan are heavier and need added strenght. The best time for you to add studs in for assistance is when the drywall is down.
A second tip just before you commence: Do a quick test to check out if your partitions are square. You'll be able to do this employing the “3-4-5” rule. Measure 3’ out from one particular corner from the wall and generate a mark. Measure 4’ out in the exact corner on adjacent wall and create a mark. Now measure the exact distance between the two marks. It ought to come to 5’ of the dot.when the corner is square.
Do not get concerned if your ceiling corners are a tiny bit off square. That is relatively typical, in particular on older homes. Much too frequently men and women try out to shove the sheets up. Don't forget that it doesn't have to go into the corner perfectly, since the walls will butt up into your drywall ceiling, leaving space for some leniency.
Stage 1 - Hanging the Preliminary Piece
Now that we went over the basic principles, let us get the first sheet up. Start out from the corner of your room. When attaching ceilings we suggest gluing the drywall to the studs in conjunction with screwing. This trick will help avoid sagging.
1st, utilize a modest level of construction adhesive to your outer faces of one's ceiling studs.
Elevate the sheet up with that drywall lift, if you've got 1 out there (they sure will be well worth the rental price tag). It will continue to keep you (and possibly a number of helpers) from needing to carry a large bit of drywall up more than over your head for various minutes at a time.
If the corners are usually not square, it could call for some more reducing or “shaving” from the drywall to make the piece fit very well.
Mark the placement of your respective studs with a pencil both edges pf the drywall. Now, as soon as you've got the drywall put correctly, connect it into the studs with drywall screws, five or six evenly spaced screws per stud.
These screws must be spaced 7-9” apart on the studs. Never screw immediately in to the edge on the drywall. Just as driving a nail into the edge of a board, the wood may perhaps split, driving a screw also near to the edge from the drywall might result in the plaster to break. Put all screws around 3/8 - 1/2” in away from the edge.
Stage 2 - Hanging Your Drywall Ceiling
Now that you might have your preliminary piece of drywall hung, you may start off the steps to measuring and reducing your drywall ceiling sheets. Measure out from the end of that drywall sheet to the end of the ceiling, If that is >8’, than hang another drywall sheet. If not, measure out the lenght you need to finish that row. Then duplicate that measurement on your piece of drywall. Make the measurement marks lightly with a pencil and also a use drywall square.
To chop drywall, score the surface (follow the line you’ve marked) which has a razor knife. Chances are you'll have to go over the cut quite a few times right until you’ve cut a fairly deep line into the face of the drywall.
Now, bend the sheet of sheetrock along the cut. It ought to “break” cleanly and evenly where the slice is. The moment you got the sheet bent back at a 90°
angle, slice the back side of the drywall with the razor knife.
Repeat this course of action as you shift along the wall, skipping forwards and backwards between stage 2 and stage 3. Measure and reduce, then hang, every single individual piece.
VERY IMPORTANT : MAKE SURE THAT YOU STAGGER THE BUTT JOINTS, START FROM ONE END OF THE ROOM, DO THE ROW, AND THEN START FROM THE OTHER END OF THE ROOM TO STAGGER THE JOINTS.
Be sure to butt just about every bit of drywall tightly with each other. You'd like the factory tapered edges of the drywall to meet together as much as possible. This will make the finishing much easier.
Carry on the process cutting, gluing and screwing the fasteners until the ceiling is completed. It is best to fasten around five screws per stud to attach the sheets.
Not like doing the walls, we encourage that you fasten the ceiling sheet completely before shifting onto the next sheet.
Make sure that you kept making the studs on the edges on each sheet. This will enable you to find the stud beneath the drywall when your screwing.
Ceiling Fixtures Tips :
When doing work with ceiling fixtures be sure the energy is off. Measure the gap from your sheet to both sides of the fixture as well as from the edges. Marke the site where the light fixture will be, you can then use a keyhole saw or circle cutter to cut out the area for ones electrical box.
Stage 3 - The Final Verify
Before you continue on into the taping and finishing, double check to make sure that all your screws are driven just under the surface area of the drywall, creating a dip in the paper.
If any of your screws have been driven into the drywall too depth, pass the paper surface into the plaster itself, drive one more screw for the the right depth just above or under it. If I was you, I would remove the screws that are in too depth, so that they don't pop the drywall mud later on.
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