1. A multi-pitch trad climb is illustrated starting with the flaking of the rope. Special focus is given to the belay transition, or lead swapping between the first and second pitches.

    Produced: Deling Ren
    Shot, Edited: Luke Humphrey
    Climbers: Deling Ren, Liang Chen
    Production/Technical Assistance: Yinan Zhao

    Crevasse Rescue Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6gz6WaO1_0

    Additional cinematography by Luke: Luke Allen Humphrey Featured

    Camera Equipment: 5D MKII, 70-200 2.8, 16-35 2.8, Sachtler FSB-8

    Thanks for all the feedback since we posted the video. To answer a few questions:

    1. No ground anchor on first pitch. Because the first pitch is shorter than half rope and is not a traverse, there is no need for a ground anchor. If there is a chance you need to escape the belay, you need a ground anchor.

    2. The yellow climber didn't clip the anchor before leading out. Yes, ideally he should do that to avoid a factor 2 fall, as well as a downward force on the belayer. We omitted because the first couple of moves are very mellow, and the first piece (0.5 C4) is placed fairly low. We should revise that when we get a chance.

    3. No upward piece at the belay anchor. Both climbers are about the same weight. The pitch is slabby (i.e. lots of friction). Even if the leader takes a relatively big fall, say factor 0.4, the peak force on the belayer is only 1.1 kN, only a little more than his body weight. We are not very concerned about the belayer being lifted pass the pieces. What's more, that #3 C4 is placed in a perfect horizontal crack.

    # vimeo.com/33940152 Uploaded 122K Plays 28 Comments
  2. This video demonstrates one common way to set up an extended rappel with an autoblock. This setup provides a secure method of rappel that enables the convenient incorporation of the autoblock. Note: this is not an instructional video on how to rappel.

    This video was designed for the instructional purposes of the Mountaineers climbing organization. Thank you for watching.

    # vimeo.com/113362076 Uploaded 14.4K Plays 1 Comment

Climbing Instruction

Jeffrey Crawford

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