BD athlete Adam Ondra went on something of a tear the first four months of 2011—in case you were living in a dumpster and didn't hear the news. 8c+ onsights, 9b redpoints—sometimes both in the same day. (Check out the videos here and here.)
After his northern Spain rampage, he headed down to southern Spain with his father to have a go at Chilam Balam, a wildly overhanging, 80-plus meter long, traversing route that was famously graded 9b+ by its first ascentionist, Bernabe Fernandez. It had never seen a repeat—until Adam showed up and dispatched the stunning line in a handful of tries (check out the rowdy runouts when he starts skipping clips!). Next up was an undone project to the right: a tufa and micro-crimp line that would prove to be more demanding than its well-known neighbor. Adam eventually redpointed the line, naming it La Planta de Shiva and grading it 9b. Two weeks... two of the hardest sport climbs in the world dispatched.
When Adam told us he was heading down to try Chilam Balam and La Planta de Shiva we dispatched Bernardo Gimenez to document the action, sure that Adam would—again—pull off a stunning performance. Below is Bernardo amazing video that captures both 9b ascents. Epic, epic EPIC! If this doesn't get you psyched, go back to your dumpster.
A crew of kiwi boulders in the bouldering mecca of Hueco Tanks.
Big Iron on His Hip V7, Bloody Flappy Traverse V9, Fern Roof V7, Dirty Martini on the Rocks V9, Hector V9, Loaded with Power V9, Loaded Direct V11.
The Battle in the Bubble was a new bouldering competition held at the Boulder Reservoir in Boulder, CO. It took place May 14th and 15th with qualifiers and semi-finals at The Spot bouldering gym and finals at the reservoir. The finals were ran as an elimination format, with ten competitors starting on problem one, six left for number two, four on number three, and two on number five.
More fun times in Boulder and a halfway decent video for my unnecessary drunkenness. Enjoy!