1. A multi-pitch trad climb is illustrated starting with the flaking of the rope. Special focus is given to the belay transition, or lead swapping between the first and second pitches.

    Produced: Deling Ren
    Shot, Edited: Luke Humphrey
    Climbers: Deling Ren, Liang Chen
    Production/Technical Assistance: Yinan Zhao

    Crevasse Rescue Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6gz6WaO1_0

    Additional cinematography by Luke: Luke Allen Humphrey Featured

    Camera Equipment: 5D MKII, 70-200 2.8, 16-35 2.8, Sachtler FSB-8

    Thanks for all the feedback since we posted the video. To answer a few questions:

    1. No ground anchor on first pitch. Because the first pitch is shorter than half rope and is not a traverse, there is no need for a ground anchor. If there is a chance you need to escape the belay, you need a ground anchor.

    2. The yellow climber didn't clip the anchor before leading out. Yes, ideally he should do that to avoid a factor 2 fall, as well as a downward force on the belayer. We omitted because the first couple of moves are very mellow, and the first piece (0.5 C4) is placed fairly low. We should revise that when we get a chance.

    3. No upward piece at the belay anchor. Both climbers are about the same weight. The pitch is slabby (i.e. lots of friction). Even if the leader takes a relatively big fall, say factor 0.4, the peak force on the belayer is only 1.1 kN, only a little more than his body weight. We are not very concerned about the belayer being lifted pass the pieces. What's more, that #3 C4 is placed in a perfect horizontal crack.

    # vimeo.com/33940152 Uploaded 81.4K Plays 28 Comments
  2. Dean, "Bullwinkle" Fidelman has been a fixture in the Yosemite climbing scene for nearly forty years. Through his black and white photographs he has documented several generations of Yosemite Climbers. From the StoneMasters to the RockMonkeys Dean has been there to photograph Yosemite history being made. In 1999 Dean began work on his "StoneNudes" project, one of the most unique Art projects the Climbing Community has ever scene. Since then Dean has traveled around the country and the world photographing real rock climbers (both male and female) bouldering naked. Dean believes that both the rock and the human body are sculptures, and that we look both beautiful and natural climbing.

    Please visit stonenudes.com/ to learn more.

    # vimeo.com/29677232 Uploaded 269K Plays 17 Comments


Berti Burquez

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