Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra went on an unstoppable onsight spree this past February and March in northern Spain, managing a stunning five 8c+ routes onsight. Five! Only Ondra’s fellow BD team member Patxi Usobiaga has managed a 5.14c onsight, and that was just one. We sent ace lensman Bernardo Gimenez to document Ondra’s onsighting at the mega-crag of Oliana, and he was fortunate enough to be rigged and ready when Ondra onsighted Mind Control (8c+), a gorgeous, 40-meter tufa/colonette/pocket line that was soaking wet on top. Gimenez had a pulley system set up and was able to capture the onsight in one single, flowing take, producing a truly unique record of one of the hardest sport-climbing onsights ever (it's amazing to watch the mental gears turning as Ondra tries to quickly figure out a way to securely engage the wet colonette at the top). None of Ondra's pterodactyl shrieks of max-effort during this onsight, just cool, calculated climbing that belies the demands of the grade. It truly does look like he's redpointing 7c+ rather than onsighting 8c+. Impressive, indeed.
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Filmed and Edited by: 3SM
Music by: Emancipator (http://www.emancipatormusic.com)
On October 15th 2011, adidas team athlete, Sasha DiGiulian became the first American women to climb the grade 9a (5.14d) with her historic ascent of "Pure Imagination" in Kentucky's Red River Gorge. Keith Ladzinski and Andy Mann (Three Strings Media) were there to capture her efforts and tell her story.
"It was exactly what I was looking for - a route that would demand a new levels of dedication, physical strength, and mental fortitude from me. It was of course frustrating, ego-crushing, and difficult throughout, but in the end it was a dream come true. I named the route 'Le Reve', meaning 'The Dream' in French."
Directed by Jure Breceljnik
Camera Jure Breceljnik, Jernej Valenčič
Compositing Erik Kapfer, Gorazd Kernel
Producer Erik Kapfer
Festivals And Awards 2009 International Mountain Film Festival in Cankarjev dom: the documentary won two awards (Best Climbing Movie, Audience Award).
The film is a story of one of the best climbers in the world Natalija Gros, who struggles to climb one of the most challenging verticals in Slovenia: Histerija (8c+) in Mišja peč. The camera follows Natalija’s story during her conquering the Histerija and during the climbing season (trainings, competitions, injuries, testings).
Natalija is the first woman in Slovenija to climb such a difficult wall (8c+). So far, only a few female climbers in the world have succeeded in acquiring such a result.
“The documentary is a depiction of my climbing, my career and trainings, it concentrates on my climbing the Histerija and the ups and downs during the season; it is about my impulses, temptations, hidden wishes and everything that has kept me in the world of climbing till today.” Natalija Gros
** Best extreme sports film Award - Mendi Film Festival of Vitoria-Gazteiz **
** 2n Prize - Mountain film meeting of Barcelona **
·· Mendi Film Festival of Vitoria-Gazteiz ··
·· Mountain Film Festival USHUAIA SHH…(Argentina) ··
·· Mountain film meeting of Barcelona ··
·· 5th International film festival Domžale (Slovenija) ··
·· 28° MHFF Teplice nad Metují (Chez Republic) ··
·· 36º Banff Mountain film festival (Canada) ··
·· 19th Int. Festival of Mountain Films Poprad (Slovakia) ··
·· 23rd Int. Mountain Filmfestival Graz (Austria) ··
·· 29é Unnim Mountain film festival of Torelló (Catalunya) ··
·· Kendal Film Festival 2011 (UK) ··