Alizée Dufraisse, who climbed her first 8c+, Pati noso, not long ago, has now pushed it half a notch further by doing La Reina Mora, 8c+/9a, at Siurana. The route is in the same sector, El Pati, as Pati noso, so it would seem this wall suits her quite well! This was of course the first female ascent. There has, after all, not been that many female ascents at this level. So few in fact that you can count the number of women who have climbed anything harder than 8c+ on one hand, even if you were to have lost a digit (or maybe even two). La Reina Mora was originally given 8c/+ by Ramon Julian Puigblanque but has later been upgraded first by Nico Favresse who suggested 8c+ and then by Dani Andrada who thought it was at least 8c+/9a, maybe even 9a.
A movie made for Petzl by me and my good friend Jesper Östlund.
We followed Said Belhaj when he showed his good friend Dani Andrada around on the Swedish west coast for ten days. They climbed some of the old classic routes and also tried some of the projects the area has to offer. We tried our best to capture the spirit, surroundings and the atmosphere around their visit here.
Filmed by: Martin Arvidson & Jesper Östlund
Edited by: Martin Arvidson
Climbers: Said Belhaj & Dani Andrada
October 31, 2010: The climbing at Petzl RocTrip Mexico is in full swing, with nearly 50 Petzl athletes from around the world and hundreds of climbers from across the Americas arriving at the massive El Chonta cave outside of Taxco, Mexico, a few hours south of Mexico City.
Original Soundtrack by
- Nuff Dorothy feat. Léon Roubiñol
Black Diamond athlete Nico Favresse spent some time in Siurana, Spain and managed to redpoint the stunning La Reina Mora (8c+). Lensman Bernardo Gimenez was on the scene and put together this excellent video portrait of Nico and his efforts on La Reina Mora. To see some amazing photos Gimenez took of Nico on La Reina Mora, go to: blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/athletes/video-bd-athlete-nico-favresse-on-la-reinamora-8c-suriana-spain
Jacinda Hunter, a nurse and mother of four (two boys and two girls), juggles work and parenthood with bouldering V11 and redpointing 14b. She says, “usually when I make up my mind to do something, I get it done.” Jacinda feels her biggest challenge is being a good parent and good example for her kids. “It’s hard to find time to provide opportunities for their interests and growth, and still have time to indulge in my own passions like climbing.” Jacinda and her husband, Mike, don’t have a TV-instead, the whole family goes on climbing trips together. Breaking the Law, her hardest route, was a long, cold winter project with the family. Her latest First Ascent "Fantasy Island" (5.14b) is in American Fork Canyon, Utah. For more visit bit.ly/JCHunter
Music: Pretty Lights "Someday is Everyday" Prettylightsmusic.com