Alizée Dufraisse, who climbed her first 8c+, Pati noso, not long ago, has now pushed it half a notch further by doing La Reina Mora, 8c+/9a, at Siurana. The route is in the same sector, El Pati, as Pati noso, so it would seem this wall suits her quite well! This was of course the first female ascent. There has, after all, not been that many female ascents at this level. So few in fact that you can count the number of women who have climbed anything harder than 8c+ on one hand, even if you were to have lost a digit (or maybe even two). La Reina Mora was originally given 8c/+ by Ramon Julian Puigblanque but has later been upgraded first by Nico Favresse who suggested 8c+ and then by Dani Andrada who thought it was at least 8c+/9a, maybe even 9a.
What do you need to make the best cilmbing event of the year ?
Take the best climbers, the best route setters, the best wall, holds, a warm crowd and some cold beers !
Make sure to check out what happened the day before and the hours after the competition, it's in there, waiting for you, with some action shots, exclusive interviews, and the first ever proof of a one arm pullup by Adam Ondra.
Music : Jean-Charles Lombard - Balkanic Marimba
Graphics : William Ugarte
"It was exactly what I was looking for - a route that would demand a new levels of dedication, physical strength, and mental fortitude from me. It was of course frustrating, ego-crushing, and difficult throughout, but in the end it was a dream come true. I named the route 'Le Reve', meaning 'The Dream' in French."